06 Jul

Smart Questions to Ask a New Ford Service Provider

Ford Cars Lineup

Maybe you’ve reached the point where it’s time to make an appointment with a Ford service expert that you haven’t used before. In that case, it’s especially helpful to ask some pertinent questions.

“Where Are You Located?”

Knowing the answer to this query can help you avoid getting lost en route to the establishment. It also helps you decide whether the service station is conveniently located.

“What Kinds of Services Are Offered?”

Many mechanics aim to be as comprehensive as possible in terms of the type of assistance they can provide associated with your vehicle. Regardless of if you need an oil change or a brake check, inquire about whether those things are available, and how long they would take to perform.

“Are the Technicians Fully Certified?”

It’s crucial to put your vehicle into the hands of a mechanic that has received thorough training about how to properly fix all makes and models of Ford vehicles so they meet or exceed factory expectations.

Before making an appointment, ask the receptionist if the mechanics have gotten completely certified so they know all the specifics about how to diagnose problems, resolve them and carefully check for ideal performance on parts of your Ford.

Working with a Ford service provider for the first time doesn’t have to make you feel overwhelmed. Fortunately, the questions you’ve just read are useful for helping you choose a reliable service station.

13 Nov

Should I Have My Brakes Bled?

Question: The owner’s manual for my car recommends too bleed my brakes every two years. Should I bleed my brakes as suggested in the manual?

Answer: Changing the brake fluid in your car will preserve the braking system. If your car has an ABS system or anti lock brake system it is highly recommended to have your brake fluid flushed as indicated in your cars operating manual.

The brake fluid in your car will take on moisture over a period of time. In a one year period your brake fluid can retain as much as 2 percent water.

There are several studies that have shown the damaging effects of what moisture can do to your brake system. One major problem that occurs is the brake fluid’s boiling point is reduced. New brake fluid has a boiling point of 400 degrees, with moisture in the fluid it can be reduced down to 225 degrees. This is referred to as brake fade, where heated brake fluid boils in the calipers causing steam resulting in a fading brake pedal. Your stopping distance is greatly affected and if you need to stop immediately, you won’t. Once your brakes have a chance to cool down they will operate normally again. If poor braking continues it is time to have the fluid changed out.

Dirty brake fluid can also damage the ABS components creating malfunctions to your ABS system. Another important thing to keep is mind is the moisture or water in your braking system is corrosive and over time will rust out the brake system.

27 Sep

What Are The Differences In Trailer Hitch Classes?

When you see a tow hitch and it comes with a classified rating, do you know what the difference is? If you answered no then keep reading and it will explain what a Class I, II, III, IV and V differences are. Also included is the information on a 5th wheel hitch.

A) Class I hitch – The class I tow hitch can have a maximum tongue weight of 200 pounds and a GTW or gross trailer weight of 2000 pounds. This is a light duty tow hitch most commonly found on small pickups and cars.

B) Class II hitch – The class II tow hitch can have a maximum tongue weight of 300 pounds and a GTW or gross trailer weight of 3500 pounds. This class hitch would be found on SUV’s, full size trucks or a small motor home and is perfect for towing a motorcycle trailer, small boat or off road vehicle.

C) Class III hitch – The class III hitch can have a maximum tongue weight of 500 pounds and a gross vehicle weight of 5000 pounds. This is your most common tow hitch found on trucks, motor homes, vans and 4WD vehicles.

D) Class IV hitch – The class IV trailer hitch can have a maximum tongue weight of 2000 pounds and a gross vehicle weight of 10,000 pounds. This type of hitch would be found on most diesel pusher motor homes and heavy duty trucks.

E) Class V hitch – The class V tow hitch can have a maximum tongue weight of 1200 pounds and a gross vehicle weight over 10,000 pounds. This type of trailer hitch would be found on large trucks or diesel pusher motor homes. It is for towing extremely heavy loads like a big boat, horse trailer or enclosed trailer.

Gooseneck hitches or 5th wheel hitches – If you own a medium to heavy duty truck then this type of hitch may be your best option. The hitch mounts in the back of your truck bed and will only work with a trailer set up as a 5th wheel trailer.

It is important to remember to always buy a tow hitch that will be strong enough to tow the maximum anticipated weight of the trailer and not to exceed the towing capacity of your tow vehicle.

20 May

How To Do A Radiator Flush On Your Car

Repairing A Radiator

You will first need to drain the old coolant from your cars radiator. If you have an owner’s manual it will tell you where the drain plug is located. If not look underneath the radiator for a petcock, screw, plug or bolt. Make sure when you are draining the coolant that it goes into a container and not the ground. With the container in place unscrew the drain plug and let the coolant empty out completely. If your radiator is set up with a petcock, make sure and open it all the way. If you have a drain plug that is a screw or bolt remove it completely from the radiator. After the coolant has drained from the radiator, put the drain plug back in and take off the radiator cap. Put the radiator flush solution into the radiator, then add water to the top of the filler neck on the radiator.

Put the radiator cap back on and make sure it is tight. Next start your car and let it run until it gets to operating temperature. You will also want to turn your car heater on to the highest temperature setting so the cleaning solution will circulate through it. Let the car run for an additional 12 minutes. Next turn the car off and let the engine cool down. Do not take off the radiator cap until you can touch the cap safely. If the cap is to hot to touch, the engine has not cooled down enough. After the engine has cooled down remove the drain plug and drain the radiator empty into a container. Do not let the cleaner get on the ground. Make sure and have a second container available if the first one fills up. Your radiator flush is complete. Replace the correct coolant back into your radiator and tighten the cap. Run the engine one more time, let cool and recheck your coolant level.